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Author: Subject: PVL competition ignition
Stuart Moverley
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[*] posted on 2-1-2004 at 09:33 AM
PVL competition ignition



Hello folks,

I'm considering splashing out on a PVL ignition conversion. Has anyone out there already had it done and if you have, was it worth it? What were the pros & cons of doing so?

Cheers,

Stuart Moverley
Plymouth,Devon
sfmov@btinternet.com
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Don Hart
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[*] posted on 2-10-2004 at 08:46 AM
PVL ignitions



Stuart. I too have an analog pvl ignition i am going to install on my cub. My knoledge if electronics is very limited, so bear with me. I have seen them work on a 850 Norton racer, a Triumph TT special, and a 650 Yamaha racer with no problem what so ever. I talked to Martyn Adams (Serco) and he highly recomends them, also Superior Ignitions by Rex Caunt recomends them. I will let you know how mine works out shortly. What are the ups and downs you have heard?
I'm told the will fire on the exhaust stroke, but this should't matter. Am also told they will work wet.
Don:o




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Stuart Moverley
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[*] posted on 2-11-2004 at 07:10 AM
PVL ignitions



Hello Don,

Since I posted the original message I've also spoken to Martyn who reckons that as far as ignition systems go, it's the best mod we could ever do. I like the idea of ditching the points completely and the only down side I can see is that the PVL is not able to power a lighting setup. The system is really only for competition use so if you want lights as well, a separate battery and wiring will have to be carried. I've already decided to go that route and have already sent my LH crankcase half off to Martyn for modification. I'll be a while yet so when you get yours up and running, keep us all up to speed on how you get on with it.

Cheers,

Stuart Moverley
Plymouth,Devon,UK
sfmov@btinternet.com
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Mike Browne
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[*] posted on 3-11-2004 at 10:32 PM


I just got the PVL from Sammy Miller. I did not know you needed to have the case modified. Is there someone in the US that can do this modification.
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stevo6118
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[*] posted on 3-12-2004 at 12:44 PM
pvl competition ignition



hi mike, any machine shop should be able to machine the crankcase with no trouble. all they have to do is spotface and drill for three studs and supply spacers so that the ignition can be fitted c15 alternator style. they may have to see the crankcases assembled to take measurements for the spacers. the ignition rotor i fitted didn't have a keyway, so the studs can be positioned to give the easiest exit route for the wiring. you have to run a 3 thou feeler gauge around the rotor after setting the timing to check that there is clearance between the rotor and the stator, and also remove the original lugs from inside the chaincase. you may be disapointed with the size of the spark when you check it, but don't be, these ignitions are brilliant! i have never ridden my cub with standard ignition, but when i fitted it to my c15 the difference was incredible, instant starting, smooth running, total reliability and 10 percent more power at all revs. good luck.
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Mike Browne
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[*] posted on 3-12-2004 at 09:49 PM


Thanks for the reply Stevo, This is the same system we have on our Speedway Bikes, Never have to touch it. I'll have my local machinist take a look at it. I'll post a picture after its completed.
Mike.
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Stuart Moverley
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[*] posted on 3-13-2004 at 04:17 AM


Hello folks,

For anyone that's interested in what the PVL ignition set up looks like on a Cub, there are a couple of good photos on Rex Caunt's website. Just follow the link below. Hope it's useful.

http://www.rexcauntracing.com/projects/tigercub/


Stuart Moverley
Plymouth,Devon,UK
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bobby
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[*] posted on 3-13-2004 at 11:48 AM


I'm interested in fitting something similar but running lights either direct or via a battery, but not battery alone. Most systems seem to be sans lights.

Any ideas / suggestions?
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Stuart Moverley
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[*] posted on 3-13-2004 at 12:26 PM


Hello Bobby,

From what I've been told, there is no easy answer to this one. The currently available PVL set up for a Cub is not capable of running lights. Let's face it, PVL ignition is primarily intended for competition use and you don't need lights for that. Martyn Adams of Serco Engineering told me that he's working on a Mk2 version that will accomodate lights but it's not ready yet. I've no idea how long it will take. As it stands at the moment, my understanding is that our only option is to have a stand alone battery and lighting circuit. I reckon that a 12Ah battery will keep lights on for a couple hours at least and that's enough time to get home if I get caught out by bad weather or in the dark - sort of emergency use only.

Stuart Moverley
Plymouth,Devon,UK
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Mike Browne
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[*] posted on 3-14-2004 at 10:01 PM


It looks like I will have to build my mount for the PVL. No one in the US to do it. It also looks like I have to bore the new PVL rotor from an 8mm hole to a 19mm hole is this right?
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Don Hart
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[*] posted on 3-16-2004 at 07:43 AM
pvl installer



There is a place in my home town that sells and or installs pvl ignitions on cubs. B&M Cycles,Plaquemine Louisiana, contact Ernest Blanchard 225-687-9493.
Does excellent work, also has other trick mods he does with cubs. Don Hart:cool:




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Don Hart
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[*] posted on 4-1-2004 at 09:50 AM


Earnest Blanchard of B&M Cycles installed my pvl ignition. He did it just the way stevo6118 described. Note the teflon primary chain tensioner he also added. Triumph originally designed a primary chain tensioner on there prototype terriers but did not produce it when reynolds came out with a pre-streched chain, but primary chain slack has been a problem. Earnest believes in them ever since his own 67 T20m flaped a chain while racing and tore up his left case and cover. This is not an ad for B&M. I just wanted to show how it's done & that it can be done. I'm told my ignition problem are over,done, forget it. Now I can worry about wearing out my rear tire.[img] [/img][img] [/img]
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Don Hart
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[*] posted on 4-1-2004 at 10:12 AM


Sorry my 2 pics didn't come through. They say there worth a 1000 words. I', better at banging on a work bench than a keyboard. As soon as I figure this out I'll post them.


http://cubsite.com/Pictures/Mvc-011f.jpg


http://cubsite.com/Pictures/Mvc-014f.jpg

Edited by Admin.
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Mike Browne
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[*] posted on 4-2-2004 at 09:01 PM


Thanks for the pitures Don. Do thay also sell the alloy clutch cover. I can't seem to find one.
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Don Hart
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[*] posted on 4-6-2004 at 06:49 AM


Mike. B&M doesn't stock them but will make you one on order. I made mine patterned after a Serco one. They are easy to turn ona a lathe even with my limited skills. Greg Bidou owner of T100 Toymakers in CT stocks and sells the Serco model. He also has lots of cub parts.call @ 1-(860) 824-8168
Don
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Mike Browne
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[*] posted on 8-16-2004 at 08:03 PM
PVL stater



Do you bore the rotor to 19mm to fit over the crank spacer or do you remove the sleeve on the spacer and bore the rotor to 15mm.
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mik60ish
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[*] posted on 8-17-2004 at 03:49 AM
Primary chain tensioner



Don Hart I have been looking at your home made primary chain tensioner, could you give me some more info on it ie what is the block made of etc? cheers Mike



A Tiger Cub is for life not just for Christmas!
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Don Hart
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[*] posted on 8-18-2004 at 07:06 AM
PVL ignition



On my PVL install the stock spacing washer E4458 & adaptor sleeve E4454 were not used. The pvl rotor was bored to 15mm then counter bored on th inside portion or crankshaft side to 19mm about 1/4" deep. A piece of 1" round stock alum 6061 1" long was bored to 15mm to fit over crankshaft. A lip of 19mm o.d. was then turned on th alum spacer back about 1/4" to fit inside the back side of rotor.Length of spacer will have to be adjusted achording to length of 3 pillows welded to casing holding pvl strator to posision rotor corectley in strator. Stock rotor nut E3971 was used to hold rotor down. These measurments or not exact you'll have to measure with calipers as you go. Sorry for mixing us & metric but I'm not use to metric.
The chain tensioner is just a piece of 1"x 1/8" flat bar alum with a spring & a piece of teflon. Teflon was used because I had it. You could use material from a tensioner from any bike if it fits.
I'm not good at explaining things. That's why the pics I posted. I hope this helps & I'll be glad to answer any other questions.
Cheers




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Monty
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[*] posted on 9-24-2004 at 07:38 AM


My set up uses the sleeve but not the spacer. The PVL is bored out to 19-20mm. The crank nut is modified so that the shoulder is removed.

Martyn Adams also does a neat chain tensioner, it fixes to two of the crankcase bolts, it doesn't use a spring - tension has to be pre-set and then adjusted.
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